SAGARMATHA · CHOMOLUNGMA · THE THIRD POLE
Everest
STAGE I · GATEWAY · 2,860 M
Flight to Lukla
Nearly every expedition begins on a 527-metre strip of tarmac tilted 12% into a mountainside. Tenzing–Hillary Airport has no go-around: a wall of rock at one end of the runway, a 600-metre drop at the other. Pilots get one attempt.
From here the road ends. Everything an expedition needs, from food and fuel to ropes and oxygen, moves up-valley on the backs of porters, yaks and dzos.
- 527 m runway · 12% slope
- No go-around
- Day 1 · late March
Field data
| Built | 1964, by Sir Edmund Hillary’s Himalayan Trust, on land he bought from local farmers |
|---|---|
| Reputation | Routinely rated the most dangerous commercial airport in the world |
| Worst day | 2008. Yeti Airlines Flight 103 crashed on approach; 18 died |
| The alternative | A 6–8 day walk-in from Jiri, the classic approach march before the airstrip existed |
STAGE II · KHUMBU VALLEY · 3,440 M
Namche Bazaar
Two days up the Dudh Koshi gorge, across the high Hillary Suspension Bridge, the trail switchbacks 600 vertical metres to the amphitheatre town of Namche: the Sherpa capital and the last real market before the mountain.
Acclimatisation starts here, and it is not optional. Above 2,500 m the body begins building extra red blood cells; the rule is climb high, sleep low, gaining no more than ~500 m of sleeping altitude a day.
- 62 km trek to Base Camp
- Climb high, sleep low
- O₂ 66% of sea level
Field data
| Population | ≈ 1,600 permanent, swelling several-fold every spring season |
|---|---|
| Heritage | Centuries-old trading post: Tibetan salt over the Nangpa La for lowland grain |
| This day’s gain | +800 m from Phakding, the trek’s hardest single climb |
| Services | Gear shops, bakeries, ATMs, and the Khumbu’s helicopter-rescue hub |
STAGE III · TENGBOCHE · 3,867 M
The blessing
On a ridge with the finest view in the Khumbu stands Tengboche Monastery, the largest in the region. Expeditions stop here for a puja blessing; many Sherpas will not set foot in the Icefall without one.
Across the valley rises Ama Dablam (6,812 m), “the mother’s necklace.” Everest itself appears ahead for the first time, a dark pyramid trailing its plume of jet-stream cloud.
- Puja ceremony
- Ama Dablam 6,812 m
- Day 4
Field data
| Founded | 1916 by Lama Gulu. Flattened by the 1934 earthquake, burned in 1989, rebuilt both times |
|---|---|
| The ritual | The lama reads the mountain’s omens; rice, juniper smoke and blessed rope for the Icefall |
| Festival | Mani Rimdu each autumn: masked dances celebrating Buddhism’s arrival in Khumbu |
STAGE IV · THE HIGH VALLEY · 4,940 M
Above the treeline
Past Dingboche the last trees vanish and the world turns to rock, ice and wind. At Thukla Pass (4,830 m) the trail threads a field of stone chortens, memorials to climbers who never came home. Every climber walks through their own possible future here.
Roughly half of all trekkers feel altitude sickness on this stretch. For its severe forms, HAPE and HACE, the only cure is immediate descent.
- Memorial cairns · 4,830 m
- ~50% experience AMS
- O₂ 55% of sea level
Field data
| The memorials | 100+ chortens, including Scott Fischer (1996 storm) and Babu Chiri Sherpa |
|---|---|
| Field hospital | Pheriche clinic below the pass, run by the Himalayan Rescue Association since 1973 |
| Warning signs | Ataxia, confusion, a cough with froth. HACE and HAPE can kill within hours |
STAGE V · BASE CAMP · 5,364 M
The tent city
Base Camp sits on the rubble-covered ice of the Khumbu Glacier itself, ice that creeps about a metre a day, so the camp cracks, tilts and shifts beneath a thousand-plus residents at peak season.
Expeditions live here for six to eight weeks, making acclimatisation rotations up the mountain and back. The air already holds barely half the oxygen of sea level, and the climbing hasn’t started.
- 1,000+ residents in season
- Glacier moves ~1 m/day
- Day 9 · O₂ 53%
Field data
| First used | The 1952 Swiss expedition pioneered this camp and most of today’s route |
|---|---|
| Medicine | Everest ER, the world’s highest emergency room, staffed every season since 2003 |
| Darkest day | 25 April 2015: earthquake avalanche off Pumori killed 18+ here, the mountain’s deadliest single day |
| Logistics | Every barrel, generator and tomato arrives by yak or helicopter |
STAGE VI · KHUMBU ICEFALL · 5,486 M
The gauntlet, at 4 a.m.
The first climbing is the most dangerous: 600 vertical metres of collapsing glacier, seracs the size of apartment blocks that topple without warning. The Icefall Doctors rebuild the route of ropes and aluminium ladders all season long.
Climbers move through between 3 and 5 a.m., the hour you see here, while the ice is frozen stiff. In 2014 a single serac collapse killed 16 Nepali mountain workers.
- Crossing starts ~3 AM
- ~20 ladder crossings
- Deadliest zone of the route
Field data
| Death toll | ≈ 50 lives, more than any other section of the south route |
|---|---|
| 2014 collapse | A hanging serac released at 6:45 a.m.; 16 Sherpas died, ending the season |
| Icefall Doctors | ~8 specialists, paid by the SPCC, who fix and re-fix the ladder route daily |
| Speed rule | Guides allow 3–4 hours maximum in the fall, with no resting under seracs |
STAGE VII · CAMP I · 6,065 M
The valley of silence
Above the Icefall opens the Western Cwm, a hanging glacial valley walled by Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. Windless and snow-white, it is a solar oven: on a clear noon it can feel like +35 °C; the same night falls to −20 °C.
The floor is a maze of hidden crevasses: some spanned by ladders, some big enough to swallow a bus. Everyone moves roped, all the time.
- +35° → −20 °C in one day
- Hidden crevasse fields
- O₂ 47% of sea level
Field data
| Named | 1921, by George Mallory. “Cwm” is Welsh for a glacial valley |
|---|---|
| Crevasse depth | Up to ~100 m; the Cwm’s central crack forces a wide detour most years |
| Temperature swing | Over 50 °C between noon radiation and pre-dawn cold |
STAGE VIII · CAMP II · 6,400 M
Advanced base
At the head of the Cwm, beneath Nuptse’s wall, Camp II is the expedition’s forward home, the last camp with cook tents and hot meals. From here on it’s melted snow and freeze-dried rations.
Through April, Sherpa teams shuttle loads of oxygen, tents and rope between here and the high camps, many making the round trip through the Icefall a dozen times or more.
- Last hot kitchen
- Rotations · ~Day 20
- O₂ 45% of sea level
Field data
| Function | Advanced Base Camp, occupied for ~4 weeks of rotations before the summit push |
|---|---|
| Rescue ceiling | Helicopter long-line rescues now reach here; the record sling rescue is ~7,800 m (2013) |
| Load carries | A summit client’s support chain moves hundreds of kilos of gear through the Icefall |
STAGE IX · LHOTSE FACE · 7,160 M
The blue ice wall
The Cwm dead-ends into the Lhotse Face: 1,100 metres of glassy blue ice at 40–50°. Climbers ascend clipped to fixed lines, front-points and one jumar at a time; an unclipped slip here is almost always fatal.
Camp III is cut into the face itself: tents on ice ledges, roped in even while sleeping. Most climbers start bottled oxygen here.
- 40–50° blue ice
- Bottled O₂ begins
- O₂ 40% of sea level
Field data
| Lhotse itself | Fourth-highest mountain on Earth (8,516 m), first climbed in 1956 by the Swiss |
|---|---|
| Camp III | Ledges chopped from the ice at 7,160 m, clipped to the line even inside the tent |
| The rule | Two carabiners: never both unclipped at an anchor change |
STAGE X · SOUTH COL · 7,906 M
Edge of the death zone
Over the Yellow Band of limestone and the rocky Geneva Spur, the route tops out on the South Col, a wind-scoured saddle between Everest and Lhotse, littered with the shredded tents of seasons past. The sun is setting; the push begins near midnight.
For most of the year the jet stream hammers this col at 160+ km/h. Teams wait for the brief mid-May window when it lifts north.
- Winds 160+ km/h
- Mid-May weather window
- Day 47 · O₂ 36%
Field data
| First reached | 1952. Raymond Lambert and Tenzing Norgay pushed on to ~8,595 m before turning back |
|---|---|
| Weather station | The world’s highest, at 8,810 m on Bishop Rock just above, installed in 2022 |
| Named features | Geneva Spur honours those Swiss pioneers; the Yellow Band is 400-million-year-old seabed limestone |
STAGE XI · THE DEATH ZONE · 8,000 M +
Where the body dies
Above 8,000 metres no human can acclimatise. Digestion shuts down, the brain swells, judgment blurs, and exposed skin frostbites in minutes. Every hour spent here, the body is consuming itself.
Summit teams leave the Col at 10–11 p.m., climbing through the night by headlamp, a chain of lights on the black face, reaching the Balcony at 8,400 m in the small hours.
- No recovery above 8,000 m
- Departure ~11 PM
- −35 °C windchill · Day 48
Field data
| The term | Coined in 1953 by expedition doctor Édouard Wyss-Dunant: “the lethal zone” |
|---|---|
| Who remains | ≈ 200 climbers still lie above 8,000 m; recovery is too dangerous |
| Oxygen math | A climber burns 2–3 bottles on summit day; each lasts ~6 hours at 2 L/min |
| 1996, here | The May storm chronicled in Into Thin Air killed 8 in one night between here and the summit |
STAGE XII · THE RIDGE · 8,749 M
South Summit & the Step
From the South Summit the route becomes a corniced knife-edge: a 3,000-metre drop down the Kangshung Face to the right, 2,400 metres into Nepal on the left. Then the Hillary Step (8,790 m), reshaped by the 2015 earthquake, still passes only one climber at a time.
In the record 2019 season, more than 300 people summited in a single day, and hours spent queueing here are hours of oxygen burned.
- Hillary Step 8,790 m
- One climber at a time
- Queues cost oxygen
Field data
| First reached | South Summit: 26 May 1953, Bourdillon & Evans, 100 m short and out of oxygen |
|---|---|
| The Step | A 12 m rock problem at 8,790 m; partially collapsed in the 2015 earthquake |
| The photo | 2019. Nirmal Purja’s image of 200+ climbers queued on this ridge went worldwide |
| Exposure | Kangshung Face drop: ~3,000 m. Cornices overhang it invisibly |
STAGE XIII · SUMMIT · 8,848.86 M
The roof of the world
The summit is a snow platform about the size of two ping-pong tables, strung with prayer flags, with the curve of the Himalaya below: Makalu, Kangchenjunga, Cho Oyu, and Lhotse fourth-highest on Earth, almost underfoot. Sunrise, Day 49.
Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay stood here first at 11:30 a.m. on 29 May 1953. Most climbers stay under twenty minutes, because most deaths on Everest happen on the way down.
- First ascent 29 May 1953
- ~15 min on top
- Descent = most dangerous
Field data
| First ascent | 29 May 1953. Edmund Hillary & Tenzing Norgay, 11:30 a.m., via this route |
|---|---|
| First woman | Junko Tabei, 1975, twelve days after surviving an avalanche at Camp II |
| Without oxygen | Messner & Habeler, 1978. Thought physiologically impossible until they did it |
| First winter | Wielicki & Cichy, 17 February 1980 (Polish expedition) |
| Most ascents | Kami Rita Sherpa: 32, the latest in May 2026 |
| Youngest / oldest | Jordan Romero, 13 (2010) · Yuichiro Miura, 80 (2013) |
| Fastest | Base Camp to summit in 10 h 56 m. Lakpa Gelu Sherpa, 2003 |
EPILOGUE · THE LEDGER
What the mountain costs
Seventy-plus years after the first ascent, Everest remains an equation of money, weather, oxygen and luck, solved a few hundred times each May, and sometimes not solved at all.
Seventy years on the mountain
HOVER FOR ANY YEAR · MARKED YEARS CARRY A STORY · COUNTS APPROXIMATE (HIMALAYAN DATABASE & PRESS REPORTS)
Seventy-plus nations have stood on the summit. Each top origin wears its own colour on the map; this list is the key.
The record book
MOMENTS THAT DEFINED THE MOUNTAIN · GOLD FOR FIRSTS, RED FOR THE DARK YEARS
The names
TWENTY-TWO PEOPLE THE MOUNTAIN REMEMBERS · PORTRAITS: WIKIMEDIA COMMONS
Attempted Everest six times over eighteen years before the climb that worked. On 29 May 1953, with Hillary, he stood where no one ever had. Born in the Khumbu, he became the most celebrated Sherpa in history and founded a climbing school in Darjeeling.
The New Zealand beekeeper who shared the first ascent, then spent his life repaying it: schools, hospitals and the Lukla airstrip for the villages below. He later reached both poles, the only person of his time to stand at all three.
Led three of the earliest attempts and gave mountaineering its most famous answer when asked why. He vanished near the summit in 1924. His body was found in 1999, but whether he reached the top first remains the mountain’s oldest question.
The 22-year-old Oxford engineer who kept the temperamental oxygen sets alive. He disappeared beside Mallory high on the ridge. The camera they carried, still unfound, is the mountain’s great missing witness.
Ran the 1953 expedition like a military operation and chose the pair who went to the top. He carried loads to 8,350 metres himself, then turned back so they could finish. Britain made him a lord for it.
Found the southern route through the Khumbu Icefall in 1951, the line almost everyone has climbed since. He was passed over as leader of the 1953 expedition for being too much the wandering explorer, too little the organiser.
Proved with Peter Habeler that the summit could be reached on lungs alone. Two years later he returned and climbed it again entirely solo, still without oxygen. He would become the first to climb all fourteen 8,000-metre peaks.
Led the first all women expedition to the mountain. An avalanche buried her camp twelve days before the summit; she was dug out unconscious, recovered, and finished the climb. She went on to summit the highest peak on every continent.
Climbed beside Messner on the day bottled oxygen became optional, then descended from the summit to the South Col in barely an hour, terrified his mind was slipping away without it.
Summited on 17 February 1980 with Leszek Cichy, in jet-stream cold no one had endured before. He went on to climb all fourteen 8,000ers, several of them in winter, a season he made his own.
Blind since his early teens, he reached the summit following the sound of a bell tied to the climber ahead. He later went on to complete the Seven Summits.
A guide from Thame with more ascents than anyone alive. Most were working climbs, fixing the ropes and breaking trail ahead of paying clients. He first summited in 1994 and still returns to the mountain every spring.
The former Gurkha and special-forces soldier whose photograph of 200 climbers queued on the summit ridge became the defining image of the crowds. That same year he climbed all fourteen 8,000-metre peaks in six months, shattering a mark that had previously taken nearly eight years.
Held the record across two decades of guiding. He now campaigns on climate from Utah, telling audiences that the snow-and-ice route he first knew is turning to bare rock and meltwater.
The Snow Leopard summited ten times without ever once using bottled gas, including the first winter ascent made without oxygen. No climber has matched that tally on lungs alone.
Skied down from the South Col in 1970 with a parachute for a brake, a stunt filmed for an Oscar-winning documentary. In 2013, after heart surgery, he came back and reached the summit at the age of 80.
Refused to leave a failing client near the summit as the 1996 storm closed in. He survived a night in the open at 8,750 metres and spoke by radio to his pregnant wife in New Zealand before the cold took him.
The charismatic Seattle guide who ran the rival expedition and died in the same storm as Rob Hall, high on the mountain, after seeing his clients down. His story anchored the book Into Thin Air.
Walked back out into the whiteout three times in a single night and pulled three climbers from the snow, an act of endurance the American Alpine Club later honoured. Annapurna took him just over a year later.
Spent a night on the summit without oxygen, a feat never repeated, and once climbed from Base Camp to the top in under seventeen hours. A crevasse near Camp II took him in 2001, on his eleventh expedition.
Reached the summit on her fourth attempt, defying expectation in her own country, and died on the descent. Nepal made her a national heroine, put her face on a stamp and named a peak and a highway for her.
The fastest alpinist of his era, famous for speed-soloing the great alpine north faces. He was acclimatising for an Everest to Lhotse traverse without oxygen when he fell on neighbouring Nuptse in 2017.
EPILOGUE II · ONE PERSON, EVERY LOAD · THE MAKER
The other ascent
This mountain was climbed twice: once on screen, and once at a desk, by one person carrying every load. Researcher, cartographer, art director, lighting artist, data editor, engineer. No template, no team.
A professional who builds whatever the brief demands: strategy, design, code, film, sound. Years of shipped products stand behind him; Everest is the latest, from idea to internet, alone. The artist in him is why it looks like this.
- Works worldwide
- Projects
- Retainers
- Full-time
- Advisory
| A brand that needs to be felt | Gets a website like this one: a page built to be experienced, not browsed. Concept, design, build and score, delivered whole |
|---|---|
| An idea with no product yet | Goes zero to one: strategy, interface, build and launch, from the first sketch to shipped |
| A product that leaks users | Gets the audit: friction found, flows rebuilt, sharpened until it converts |
| A launch with no plan | Gets the product manager: positioning, roadmap, go to market |
| Something that fits no category | His favourite kind of brief. Say hello and find out |
The idea
- The full climb, Lukla to summit, told in one continuous scroll
- No menus, no chapters, nothing to hunt for: you simply keep climbing
- Part documentary, part expedition film, finished in one sitting
The route
- Every screen is a product decision: what earns attention, what yields, what waits
- Cards and controls step aside whenever the scenery deserves the full frame
- Scroll speed is choreographed: dangerous passages crawl, the summit turns slowly
The light
- The mountain is lit like a film set: one sun, real god rays, deep shadows
- Dawn, noon and dusk graded like film, never left to simulation
- Text labels sense the daylight behind them and recolour to stay readable
The film
- Press Experience and the whole journey plays itself, runway to summit
- Letterboxed, scored and seekable, with the soundtrack carrying the story
- A page that becomes cinema for visitors who want to lean back
The score
- Six acts of original music, one for each stretch of the climb
- The click that opens the site is also the first beat of the score
- As you climb higher, the music changes acts with the altitude
The craft
- The site measures your device every frame and tunes its picture to match
- The headline typeface was corrected letter by letter until it sat perfectly
- Invisible work everywhere: what stays visible is only the feeling
The icefall
- The ledger hides the whole mountain behind a wall of frosted glass
- Fidelity no eye can catch there, so the instant it fills the screen, the unseen work stops
- The glass looks the same, the frame rate soars, and the world keeps breathing behind it
The summit
- Ten disciplines, zero templates, zero teams: one pair of hands throughout
- A real mountain and seventy years of its history, in one browser tab
- The next expedition could be yours: the button above is waiting